How the tomato is grown

How the tomato is grown

The tomato is a plant native to Peru, cultivated in Mexico first by the Maya and then by the Aztecs. In the last 200 years it has become one of the most important vegetable crops, many varieties have been selected to grow, adapting the plant to the most disparate climates and soils.

It is a vegetable that cannot be missing in any good home garden, so here we are to give you some tips on how to grow tomatoes. As always, we consider growing our vegetables in compliance with organic cultivation, i.e. without using synthetic chemical insecticides but with natural defense methods. The aim is to obtain healthy and sustainable vegetables, we will see how to do it below.

From the cherry tomato to the ox heart, from the classic sauce tomato to the extravagant black tomatoes, we are talking about a vegetable that never gets tired, thanks to its many varieties and the thousand uses it finds in the kitchen. The satisfaction of eating a tomato picked directly from your own plant will pay off all the agricultural work required, so let's see how to best cultivate this vegetable in an organic garden.

The right soil and climate for tomatoes

Ground. The ideal soil for growing tomatoes is with a ph = 6, the soil must be fairly loose and draining, free from stagnant water that would favor plant diseases. Furthermore, to obtain a good harvest, the soil must be rich in nutrients and organic matter. In fact, tomatoes are quite a "greedy" vegetable.

Climate. Even if fairly cold-resistant types of tomatoes have been selected, it is still a plant that can stand frost, and above all that requires excellent sun exposure. Tomatoes can be grown practically all over Italy, as long as you have a sun-kissed plot. The plant also fears excessive dryness, which can be limited by mulching and irrigation.

Fertilization of tomato

Fertilizing tomato is very important for a good harvest, especially if the soil has already been cultivated previously. The most important contribution of organic matter is the "basic fertilization": it consists in putting the fertilizer in the preparatory phase of the soil.

As a quantity we calculate 0.6 kg of pelleted organic fertilizer per square meter, 10 times as much if it is manure or mature compost. Given the choice, it is always better to use mature manure rather than pellets, since by adding more substance, the soil is fined, improving its structure. If the production is scalar, it is possible to intervene during the work with fertilization additions, also intervening with water-soluble organic products such as ox blood or borlande (residues from beet processing).

How tomatoes are sown

Sow the tomato plants. The tomato should be sown in the seed tray, between February and March, the seed germinates in about a week. It must be placed in a warm environment: it takes about 24 degrees to germinate. It then requires at least 13 degrees to grow. The tomato is a plant that is sensitive to temperature rather than to the hours of light. You can learn more about the topic by reading the advice of Orto Da Coltivare on the sowing of tomatoes.

Sixth of implant

To decide at what distance to transplant the tomato seedlings, you need to know if the plant has a specific habit (it stops growing when it reaches a certain size, so it does not require supports) or an indeterminate habit (supports must be prepared). Vegetable tomatoes usually have indeterminate growth and are made in rows 70 cm apart (50 cm along the row between one plant and another), it is convenient arrange the supports horizontally (make two rows paired, the supports cross at the top, where they bind, in this way the support gains stability and a part never undergoes trauma to the roots. The plants with a determined bearing are transplanted in rows 120 cm apart and 70 cm on row, the distance is greater because they have a horizontal development.

Plant the seedlings

Transplanting the tomato: from sowing in seedbeds it is then passed into pots, up to the pre-flowering stage. At this point you can transplant, as long as the minimum temperatures are at least 10 degrees. The flowers need at least 13 degrees to attach, otherwise there is a fruitless drop. Transplanting in the pre-flowering phase, when the plants are about 30 cm tall, allows you to arrange the seedlings with the flowers facing the outside of the bed, so that all the flowers will emerge from that side and harvesting will be very convenient.

Grow the tomato

To successfully cultivate tomato plants in the vegetable garden you need to have some precautions: arrange the right supports, keep weeds at bay, do not lack water with irrigation as needed and properly prune the plants by removing the tomato and trimming it. right height.

Build the supports and tie the tomato

To prevent the tomato plant from lying down as it grows, or worse, breaking under the weight of the fruit, it is very important to arrange supports. The possibilities are many and if we turn to different gardens we can discover many different DIY scaffolding.

For varieties with determined growth, a simple vertical pole driven into the ground is sufficient, but in many cases it is better to build more articulated structures.

The important thing is to ensure that the plant stands upright and sunny in all its parts. In addition to making the stakes, remember to tie the tomato stem as it grows, which is often overlooked.

Tomato pruning and flaking

Pruning of axillary shoots. The tomato plant produces sprouts in the armpit of the various leaves, also called cacchi or sissies. These should be cut near the base as soon as possible (with the leaves or even with the nail), because they disperse the energy of the plant. The same goes for the suckers that grow at the base. Females or suckers of a certain size can be used to reproduce the plant by cutting, so that later tomatoes will be obtained. The cut axillaries can be left at the foot of the plants so as not to impoverish the soil. If the soil has too much nitrogen, females can also be born from the clusters of flowers and the veins of the leaves.

Topping. The tomato should be left to grow until September, finally the central shoot is topped off, letting the plant concentrate on the height reached rather than lengthening further. Specified growth varieties should not be topped.

How much to water the tomato

It is not easy to give correct information on how much water a crop needs, certainly the tomato is a vegetable that has a fair amount of water.

For greenhouse cultivation, tomatoes need 1,400 liters per square meter, in the vegetable garden it naturally depends on the climate and the soil.

On average, 600 - 900 liters are enough, including those that fall like rain. To get an idea, you can consider one millimeter of rain = 1 liter of water per square meter. If it doesn't rain, it usually gets wet once / twice a week, abundantly but without letting it stagnate.

Crop rotation

The tomato is a vegetable that is well fertilized and generally leaves a residual fertility that can be exploited by less demanding plants. After the tomato, leguminous plants (such as broad beans, chickpeas, peas, beans) can be cultivated even without basic fertilization, or liliaceae (garlic or onion).

Adversity of the tomato

The tomato plant can be prey to some insects and above all it is subject to various diseases and physiopathies, which is why organic farming requires careful cultivation practice that can prevent problems, as well as constant monitoring that allows timely interventions.

Diseases of the tomato

If fungal diseases occur, it is good to remember that the plants must be burned or thrown in the garbage and must not be used for composting or left on the ground. In addition, the spores of diseases such as tomato blight or fusarium can remain in the soil and hit the garden again in subsequent years, which is why crop rotation is important. In organic horticulture, prevention is fundamental: if you create the conditions for a healthy garden, you can avoid resorting to treatments.

Downy mildew. This disease is recognized by the yellowing of the leaves, looking up against the light you can see different densities in the yellowed leaf. The color then changes to brownish and is transmitted in patches on the stem and fruit. On tomato fruits, downy mildew manifests itself in spots in concentric circles. It usually strikes from mid-August, due to night humidity and temperatures. To combat it, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or in any case organic products based on copper are used, although good prevention can reduce the use of fungicide.

Learn more about tomato blight. One of the worst diseases in the vegetable garden, let's find out how to stem and defeat this pathogen.

Alternaria. Another fungal disease that affects the tomato and like downy mildew begins with a yellowing of the leaves, and then manifests itself in dark spots and rot in the fruits. The rot can be found in any part of the fruit, thus it is distinguished from the apical rot, which is instead a physiopathy. The alternaria in organic farming always contrasts with copper treatments.

Fusarium and verticillium. Tomato fusarium causes rapid death of plants, which dry out after wilting. Opening the stem, the black capillaries can be seen, a sign of infection. The affected plant must be eliminated promptly, otherwise the disease quickly spreads throughout our tomato crop.

Rhizottonia or pitium. Fungal disease that affects tomatoes, carrots and parsley, acts when there is high humidity and temperatures of at least 20 degrees, affects the plant at the collar and roots. To avoid it, it is advisable to disinfect the sowing soil and the garden soil with copper.

Bacteriosis. When the tomato is affected by bacteria, small dots appear on the leaves and a growth arrest, copper can cure this problem, not being irreversible like the fungal diseases.

Physiopathies of the tomato

Unlike diseases, physiopathies are problems due to abnormal environmental conditions, restoring the correct situation can save the plant. We see the main symptoms that something in the climate or in the ground is not going right.

Apical rot. It manifests itself as a black spot on the fruit, it mainly affects the elongated varieties and is jokingly called the "black ass of the tomato". Apical rot is generally due to a lack of water, it can also be due to too much nitrogen or potassium in the soil. This is one of the most common physiopathies, it can be explored by reading the article dedicated to apical rot.

Recognizing, preventing and resolving apical rot. Let's go into the causes and remedies of the "black ass" of tomatoes.

Tomato canning. It happens that the fruit is soft and withered because the development of the placenta stops. This phenomenon is called boxing and is due to a sudden shortage of water.

Not staining. With temperatures above 35 degrees the production of lycopene is interrupted, so the tomato does not take on color. Fruit canning often occurs at the same time.

Drop some flowers. The flowers dry out and fall off without producing fruit. Generally it occurs for climatic reasons (too cold, too hot), but it also happens for states of suffering of the plant or lack of pollination of the flowers.

Splitting of the fruit. The tomato thickens the skin in case of drought, subsequent heavy rains can split the fruits.

Cracks. They are due to high humidity in the air and generally occur from the second half of August. They manifest themselves as a spider web that affects only the upper part, while the lower one remains healthy.

Sunburn. The strong sun can make the tomato fruit whitish or brownish, in the days of strong summer sun it is better to resort to shading nets to avoid it.

Muzzle of cat. This is the name of three dry spots that appear on the fruit at the apex, due to the lack of production of auxins. It occurs if too many leaves are removed from the plant, beware of vigorous pruning.

Insects and parasites of the tomato

Tomato moth, illustration by Marina Fusari

From bedbugs to aphids, let's discover together who are the enemies of the vegetable garden that we can find on tomatoes and how to fight them without the use of toxic insecticides, but remaining in biological methods.

  • Aphids. These tomato lice are dangerous above all because they transmit virosis to plants, they can be recognized at first sight when they curl up the leaves. In the organic garden you can fight aphids with pyrethrum (organic insecticide) or with natural methods, such as garlic, nettle macerate or Marseille soap. The biological defense against aphids is mainly done by ladybugs, tireless predators of these lice.
  • Elaterids. These are underground worms that attack the roots, their attack is noted by observing the unexplained decay of plants. On Orto Da Coltivare you can learn more about how to defend yourself from elateridae in a biological way.
  • Night. The larvae of these moths come out of the ground at night time and eat the aerial part of the plants, they can fight with the bacillus thuringensis, to learn more you can read the defense against the nocturnes.
  • Tuta absoluta or tomato moth.
  • Colorado beetle. This beetle attacks solanaceous plants, although we find it more often on potatoes and eggplants, find advice to defend the garden from Colorado beetle.
  • White fly. Insect similar to aphids in action, you can read the article dedicated to the whitefly.
  • Bedbugs. These insects spoil the fruits of tomatoes by poking them, so it is advisable to take the necessary countermeasures, always within a biological and natural defense. To intervene with biological insecticides it is useful to find the nest, deepen by reading the remedies against bedbugs
  • Slugs and snails. These gastropods eat the aerial part of the plant, you can read how to defend themselves from snails with natural methods.
  • Mice and voles. If you have rodent problems in the field, you can learn more about the methods to remove mice from the garden.

The tomato varieties

The tomato is a vegetable for which many varieties have been selected, the shapes of the fruit can be different (for example pear-shaped, elongated, round, cherry) and the color of the skin (from yellow to red, with streaks of black or green ), but above all we distinguish the different varieties of tomatoes based on the type of growth of the plant. We therefore have tomatoes a determined growth (stops growing) or indeterminate (continues to grow and therefore needs to be topped).

Generally, the plants with a determined development are tomatoes destined for industry, while those for fresh consumption and therefore from the vegetable garden have indeterminate growth, also because they mature in stages and are therefore better to cover the consumption needs of the family garden, where goal is to bring fresh vegetables to the table.

There are many famous tomato varieties, generally the sauce ones are distinguished from the table ones, from cherry tomatoes to pachino. Good qualities of table tomatoes are for example marmande, ox heart and carmelo.

To help you choose which tomato varieties to sow in your garden, I wrote an article that describes some interesting and recommended tomato varieties. If you don't know what type of tomato to plant, you can take a look.

Preserving tomato seeds from one year to the next might be a good idea: it allows you to preserve a variety and avoid having to buy tomatoes every season. The important thing is to start with non-hybrid tomatoes, more details can be found in the article on how to store tomato seeds.

Other interesting reads:

Matteo Cereda2020-10-10T22: 43: 36 + 02: 00
  1. Michele Margiotta24 July 2015 at 9:11

    I have a family garden and have problems with tomatoes. The soil is clayey and worked, the leaves dry out and the plants leave the axillary ones. This method is effective and bears fruit. Thank you for your reply.

    • horticulturist29 July 2015 at 14:49

      Hi Michele. Sorry, the question escapes me a little ...
      The leaves that dry out can dry out for various reasons, one of course being drought or too much sun (perhaps an anti-hail net will shade them a little as well as protect them, just in case). There are also feared fungal diseases.
      When pruning tomatoes, the axillaries or femminielli should be removed, the method works even if tomato pruning is debated, there are those who clean a lot and those who leave the plants wilder.

  2. angel mennonna31 August 2015 at 14:50

    Bjr excellent teaching, I am interested in having information for each vegetable cultivation thanks angel

    • horticulturist31 August 2015 at 15:10

      Thanks for the compliments Angelo, if you want to keep in touch, look for us on facebook or subscribe to the newsletter, we hope that our advice on how to make a vegetable garden will be useful to you.

  3. antonio6 January 2016 at 19:14

    hello everyone I would like to subscribe to the newsletter .. thanks

    • horticulturist8 January 2016 at 8:58

      hi Antonio, welcome to our community. For those who want to subscribe to the newsletter, you can do it on this page.

  4. Bollaro salvatore28 February 2016 at 19:20

    Very useful advice compliments I will often stay in touch with your comments

  5. Maximilian29 April 2016 at 14:20

    I usually grow indeterminate-growing tomatoes, but this year next year, I planted some with determined growth. I wanted to know if even for the latter it is useful to remove the axillary hunts or if it is better to keep them, thank you!

    • horticulturist30 April 2016 at 9:34

      In my opinion it is better to always prune tomatoes, they are unproductive parts and use energy that could be better spent to develop the rest of the plant. But keep in mind that there are different theories, I always recommend trying other cultivation methods on some plants to broaden your gaze, learn and get your own idea.

  6. Max4 May 2016 at 15:03

    Thanks, very detailed!
    I would like to subscribe to the newsletter

    • horticulturist6 May 2016 at 14:59

      signed up! :-)

  7. ivo20 May 2016 at 9:53

    I planted tomatoes and put a spoonful of Bordeaux mixture on the roots and covered with earth. I did well?

    • horticulturist22 May 2016 at 8:10

      It may have been a good idea to avoid fungal diseases. However, know that with the growth of the roots, obviously the new parts that develop will not be covered, so it is more important to work the soil correctly because it is well draining than all possible treatments.

  8. Giuseppe Grave1 July 2016 at 21:24

    I grow tomatoes in a small space of about 8 square meters. Given the limited space available, I chose indeterminate plants that spreading in height allow a good production. I live in the southern part of the state of New Jersey. This year the plants have an excellent development; there is some fruit and a myriad of flowers. Unfortunately I have noticed that in many plants the leaves of the upper part are slightly curled up while remaining green. There are no signs of parasites. I water almost every 3 days for about half an hour, always in the evening or early in the morning.
    I would like to know if there are any remedies to avoid the expansion of the curling.
    Thanks: Giuseppe

    • horticulturist2 July 2016 at 8:41

      I don't know what the climate is like in New Jersey but I would say that the irrigation could be correct. If it is not parasites and there are no necrosis or patches on the leaves it is the heat. Is the water you use from the tap? A difference in temperature between climate and water can cause problems for the plant.

      • greengrocer20 June 2017 at 15:56

        never spray the leaves, tap water is usually rich in limestone, as they tend to curl up, water only at the base

  9. Giuseppe Grave1 July 2016 at 21:26

    Great article. Almost a mini encyclopedia that can be of interest to both amateurs and real growers

    • Joseph Grave '15 July 2016 at 1:24

      I am with you again. For a few days on some tomato plants the leaves have been turning yellow. Who says it lacks potassium, who says nitrogen or magnesium. What can be the solution? The fruits are unripe and show no anomalies.

      • horticulturist15 July 2016 at 21:43

        Unfortunately it is difficult to say without knowing the conditions. As watering how are you behaving? An excess of water can also cause plant diseases. Be especially careful not to irrigate during the hottest and sunniest hours of the day.

        • Giuseppe Grave17 July 2016 at 11:49

          Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately I do not find a logical explanation and I will explain: I prepared a small seedbed, kept at home near a window using 3 different types of seeds: San marzano and Big mama (a slightly bigger s.marzano) from a company American while the third type called red pear which gives large fruits up to 500 grams, from a company that imports seeds from Italy.
          Once the seedlings had been transplanted, I did almost drip irrigation 3 times a week for half an hour, always in the evening or early in the morning. As long as the plants grew with excellent vegetation and an abundance of flowers and fruits (even if still small), nothing happened; then a few weeks ago the red pear type began to yellow the leaves. I have not used chemical fertilizers; only compost made available by the city's recycling center. If the soil conditions are the same for the three types of tomatoes, why do the leaves turn yellow only for the red pear quality? Could it depend on the different ability to resist harmful agents? I would add that in this period the climate is completely summer with temperatures that fluctuate during the day from a minimum of 26 degrees to a maximum of 34; then in the last 3 days there have been fairly consistent rainfall.
          While waiting for a reply, I take this opportunity to thank "farmer" and all the staff of collaborators. Happy Sunday: Joseph

          • horticulturist18 July 2016 at 7:56

            Hi Giuseppe, honestly I don't even know how to give you an explanation. If there is only one plant, that of the red pears can happen by chance, or perhaps due to the working of the soil under that plant there is more water stagnation. If it is on all plants of the variety it may actually be a less hardy variety.

  10. tadpole13 October 2016 at 6:29

    Congratulations, full of advice and comments.

  11. Marietta24 October 2016 at 16:56

    hi, interesting comments and your answers, I have a vegetable garden since this year, (mine is a land rich in clay and little exploited) and I made several attempts I would like to know what grew best and the tomatoes were great! now xò nn I know what to do with the plants that are drying up and do not produce anything anymore, can you tell me?
    Thanks Marietta

    • Matteo Cereda25 October 2016 at 13:07

      Hi Marietta, now we are at the end of October, it is normal for the tomatoes to stop producing, the plants must be removed. It is in fact an annual crop. Instead of tomatoes you can put, for example, broad beans or garlic. Good cultivation!

  12. Alexander13 December 2016 at 7:57

    Hi all, browsing I discovered you and am I happy? that I signed up. Alexander.

    • Matteo Cereda15 December 2016 at 8:10

      Yes, you have signed up. I confirm and welcome Alessandro!

  13. Stefania20 March 2017 at 20:45

    Should the soil be prepared as soon as possible before the transplant? I live in Romagna near the sea, when is the best time? I was thinking about mid-April. Thanks and congratulations

    • Matteo Cereda21 March 2017 at 7:24

      You can also prepare it at the time of sowing, but I recommend giving it a dig a month before (now) and then working it again before sowing (or transplanting the seedling). A greeting!

  14. Joseph Grave '26 March 2017 at 11:44

    Dear Matteo, the new season is starting and I want to "grab" your advice in time.
    A few days ago, weather permitting, I began to turn the earth to remove at least part of the capillary roots of tall trees that are 4-5 meters from the cultivated area. Impossible to make a clean sweep of them, but I believe that the ones that remain help the permeability of the soil (mistake?). Considering that I will once again use the compost I have already written to you on another occasion, it would be advisable to enrich the soil with a compound mineral fertilizer
    type 10-10-10 to be distributed along the cultivable belt or alternatively what to use?
    Thank you for your always courteous availability "I wish you a good end on Sunday"

    • Matteo Cereda27 March 2017 at 7:36

      Good morning Joseph. The presence of some roots is not a great nuisance but be careful that the trees do not shade the tomatoes that ask for a beautiful sun. Particularly if the trees are south of the crops it can be a problem. In terms of fertilization, compost is fine, mature manure would be better and earthworm humus even better. By choice I make an organic garden and use only organic fertilizers, avoiding pesticides and chemical fertilizers.

  15. Luciano2 April 2017 at 6:35

    Hello and congratulations, I wanted to ask you what could have happened to my tomato seedlings.
    The seedlings (in the greenhouse) were already 7/8 cm high when one after the other thinned in one part of the stem or at the root, they naturally bent and therefore died. Where did I go wrong?

    • Matteo Cereda3 April 2017 at 10:11

      Hi Luciano, it is always very difficult to understand plant diseases from a distance. Are the roots eaten? Try to verify. You also understand if they caught some frost maybe in the evening and if there are mites under the leaves.

  16. antonio3 April 2017 at 14:42

    Lots of very interesting information, I would be interested in participating. I have a small vegetable garden where I grow: tomatoes, courgettes, parsley, cucumbers, various herbs for the kitchen, a vine branch, an olive tree that does not bear fruit, currants and blueberries. A bit of everything'. There is a lot of information needed.

    • Matteo Cereda3 April 2017 at 14:48

      Welcome Antonio, we hope the site will be useful to you then!

  17. Joseph Grave '5 April 2017 at 11:15

    Dear Matteo, complimenting your suggestions and advice is the least that can be done.
    Therefore, like many other fans of home-grown agriculture, I take advantage of your availability to ask you for some information on the use of Bordeaux mixture both in the pre-cultivation and cultivation phases, when the tomato plants are already quite adult.
    Furthermore, since I have never used chemical fertilizers, suspecting that the compost I use is not mature enough, I thought of mixing it with cow manure that is here in gardening shops ready to use by distributing it on the land to be cultivated two- three weeks before the transplant. Good afternoon and thanks again.

    • Matteo Cereda6 April 2017 at 7:34

      Hello Joseph. If the compost is not ripe don't use it, you will damage the plants (even if you mix it). Maybe I suggest you use earthworms to speed up and improve composting. If by cow manure you mean pelleted manure, it is a fertilizer that can be fine, although in my opinion it is always better to use more organic matter, which allows for a better amending effect (therefore compost, manure or humus). For the Bordeaux mixture it is used as a preventive of the peronospera, it must be given on the green parts of the plant. If you experience an infection of some parts of the plant you can try to contain it by removing the affected parts and treating the others with mush. When flowering begins, treatment must be suspended.

  18. Luca20 April 2017 at 13:13

    Hello everyone, this year I rebuilt the garden after a few years, and for the tomatoes I'm trying the spiral tubes ....... let's hope for the best!

  19. Dalila26 April 2017 at 3:28

    Also this year I transplanted some plants to graft vine tomatoes. After two days the temperature dropped. I had covered the non-woven plants and thought I did well. I rediscovered the plants because the temperature is now favorable, but I see the plants with the branches a little low ... I say a little depressed. I water them regularly every 2/3 days and not directly on the plant. Some advice?

    • Matteo Cereda26 April 2017 at 7:22

      The most probable thing is a physiopathy due to the cold, perhaps the drop in temperature was such that it even exceeded the non-woven fabric. In this case the plants will recover on their own, if they have caught cold when they are small, as soon as transplanted they could still be marked.

  20. Joseph Grave '27 April 2017 at 11:33

    Good afternoon, Matteo:
    I am Giuseppe, by now your regular reader and "disturber"; I'm joking, because I know that your advice is best used by hundreds of connoisseurs and gardeners, often amateurs like me.
    A week ago I transplanted a dozen tomato seedlings, which I raised indoors taking advantage of a very sunny window. Unfortunately, the weather got worse with abundant precipitation which prevented me from protecting the young plants. Apparently they have not suffered any damage, but the rain has been a lot and I would like to use the Bordeaux mixture as a prevention. What is your advice in this regard? Thanks and good luck: Giuseppe.

    • Matteo Cereda27 April 2017 at 12:11

      Hi Giuseppe, no trouble, indeed it is a pleasure to answer for what little I can. The Bordeaux mixture as you already know is a fungicide allowed in organic farming, it can be useful to prevent diseases and it is correct to use it on tomato plants (as long as they are not in bloom). Even if allowed in organic I tend not to use Bordeaux mixture, copper still has its own toxicity, this is an invitation not to abuse it. In your case Giuseppe, if there is a lot of rain, the treatment can be useful, to be carried out by spraying, covering well. It lasts about ten or fifteen days. Vale la pena farlo in particolare se oltre all’umidità dovuta alle piogge le temperature si alzano, creando le condizioni ideali per il proliferare delle malattie del pomodoro, se invece resta freddo secondo me puoi evitare il trattamento.

  21. Giuseppe Grave'27 Aprile 2017 al 20:35

    Buona notte Matteo. Grazie delle indicazioni di cui cerchero’ di fare tesoro. Per darti un’idea della situazione cerco di spiegarla. Ieri la temperatura e’ stata di 26 gradi nelle ore di punta, oggi il termometro segna 27 gradi centigradi e per i prossimi 10 giorni, a parte la notte che tocchera’ il minimo di 14 gradi, per le ore diurne e’ prevista una media di 28 gradi. L’umidita’ ieri era al 100%; oggi all’86 e per i prossimi 10 giorni la media sara’ sul 65-70%.
    Ho preparato la poltiglia bordolese mescolando, dopo averli sciolti separatamente, 10 grammi di solfato di rame ed 8 grammi di idrossido di calcio per ogni litro di acqua.
    Stasera daro’ una prima spruzzata; prima di eseguire un secondo trattamento aspettero’ la sua opinione. Vorrei sapere se la poltiglia bordolese la posso usare anche per le piantine di melanzane e se il prodotto che resta puo’ essere conservato e per quanto tempo.
    Ti auguro una buona notte in braccio a Morfeo: Giuseppe

    • Matteo Cereda28 Aprile 2017 al 6:47

      Ciao Giuseppe, buongiorno! Mi pare che sia corretto l’uso di precauzioni. La poltiglia bordolese la puoi usare anche sulle melanzane. Purtroppo quello che diluisci dovresti usarlo in giornata, non si conserva una volta miscelato.

  22. Giuseppe Grave'28 Aprile 2017 al 20:01

    Buona sera Matteo. Avendo dei dubbi sulla possibilita’ di conservare la poltiglia gia’ preparata, ho seguito il mio istinto ed ho preparato in due contenitori di plastica diversi il solfato di rame e l’idrossido di calcio; mescolero’ un poco alla volta i due componenti quando dovro’ usarlo. Ieri ho dimenticato di riferirti un fatto che mi e’ capitato l’anno scorso con il basilico. In famiglia piace il pesto e percio’, ogni anno, basilico ne coltivo parecchio. Il fatto e’ che pur avendo una crescita meravigliosa mi accorsi che la pagina inferiore della foglia, normalmente non esposta al sole, era coperta da un sottilissimo strato grigio che non si toglieva neppure lavato per cui gettai tutto nella spazzatura.
    Gradirei sapere se l’uso della poltiglia e’ consigliabile anche per il basilico o, inalternativa cosa usare per prevenire eventuali infestazioni. Da ricerche fatte tra gli amici sembra che il fenomeno sia stato globale.
    Grazie, come sempre, dei tuoi preziosi consigli.

    • Matteo Cereda1 Maggio 2017 al 0:36

      Ciao Giuseppe, nel caso del basilico si consumano tutte le foglie, quindi io eviterei qualsiasi trattamento (sono piuttosto rigoroso in questo). Per evitare problemi (che immagino siano di muffe) non piantare dove hai già coltivato e lavora bene il terreno perché sia drenante, se poi si ammala qualche pianta purtroppo fa parte del gioco.

  23. donato27 Maggio 2017 al 16:12

    Ciao vorrei conoscere il tuo parere, sul spruzzare il verderame, cosi si chiama da queste parti, sulle piante di pomodoro,: quante volte? e se si può usare anche se ci sono pomodori e fiori. Grazie donato da Torino.

    • Matteo Cereda30 Maggio 2017 al 20:56

      Ciao Donato, il verde rame è un fungicida consentito in agricoltura biologica, utile soprattutto come prevenzione. Personalmente preferisco evitare di usarlo, io combatto le malattie delle piante con una buona preparazione del terreno e con preparati naturali come il decotto di equiseto. Comunque nulla di male a usare il rame, si adopera sul pomodoro soprattutto in primavera. Durante la fioritura invece bisogna evitare di certo.

  24. Mario Battaglia19 Giugno 2017 al 17:48

    Salve sono Mario da Ferrara. Nel mio orto pianto a rotazione pomodori e altro, ma è un paio di anni che noto la produzione di pomodori calare perché mi si seccano i fiori nuovi in seconda o terza legatura. Come mai? Non ho notato malattie in corso le piante sono belle verdi e molto rigogliose. Grazie per l’eventuale risposta

    • Matteo Cereda20 Giugno 2017 al 10:09

      Ciao Mario. Può essere un problema di umidità che genera botrite (malattia della pianta) ma se il problema è ricorrente più facilmente è una carenza del terreno. Manca qualche microelemento tipo il calcio o forse c’è un eccesso di fosforo. Prova a concimare bene con humus di lombrico.

  25. Demetrio24 Luglio 2017 al 14:29


  26. maria30 Luglio 2017 al 16:43

    Buona sera,
    sto cercando di raccogliere più informazioni possibili sulla coltura del pomodoro e mi siete stati molto utili, perciò vi ringrazio.
    Premetto che sono arrivata a questa coltura per puro caso: una piantina è nata spontaneamente tra i miei fiori e cresceva così robusta e così rapidamente che ho deciso di provare a coltivarla. A maggio l’ho trasferita in un bel vaso, ho concimato con stallatico e in un tempo brevissimo la pianta è diventata alta, è fiorita e ha fruttificato. Adesso è alta circa 150 centimetri e ha otto grappoli di varia grandezza.
    A giugno ho riconcimato, dopo aver cimato ed eseguito la sfemminellatura. Adesso aspetto la maturazione. Vorrei approfittare della vostra esperienza per porre due quesiti:
    1 – Devo effettuare altre concimazioni su questa pianta? Ho usato concime per agricoltura biologica (azoto, potassio, fosforo).
    2 – Siccome sono nate tante piantine di piccadilly, alcune già alte e robuste, quando posso trapiantarle?
    Vi ringrazio dell’attenzione e mi scuso se le domande sono banali.

    • Matteo Cereda31 Luglio 2017 al 9:44

      Ciao Maria, a livello di concimazione se hai preparato il terreno per bene all’inizio non serve concimare ancora, ma ogni terra è una storia a parte, non so consigliarti su questo a distanza. Le piantine se sono sviluppate puoi trapiantarle, ormai siamo in agosto.

      • maria31 Luglio 2017 al 16:40

        Continuerò a leggervi per imparare di più.
        Buona serata

  27. mattia9 Agosto 2017 al 7:47

    dopo aver piantato pomodori di vario tipo ho ottenuto una discreta produzione poi dalla seconda metà di luglio ad ora le piante hanno smesso di produrre soprattutto la varietà dei ciliegini, non vedo più fiori sulle piante. Ho periodicamente eliminato i germogli ascellari e concimato il terreno secondo le indicazioni standard. Mi sapete dire quale può essere il problema, forse ho cimato le piante troppo in anticipo? Verso la metà di luglio, avevano comunque raggiunto un’altezza di circa un metro e ottanta.
    Inoltre volevo sapere come ovviare al problema di un terreno argilloso.

    • Matteo Cereda9 Agosto 2017 al 20:47

      Ciao Mattia, purtroppo non ho modo di capire a distanza come mai le piante hanno smesso di fiorire. I fattori possibili sono miriadi e io non conosco i dettagli della tua coltivazione. Visto il periodo (pieno mese di agosto) posso ipotizzare temperature particolari o irrigazioni errate, ti consiglio se fa troppo caldo di predisporre reti ombreggianti, di evitare di dare l’acqua durante le ore diurne, di non bagnare le foglie ma irrigare la base delle piante. Per il terreno argilloso consiglio molte lavorazioni, concimazione con humus o letame maturo e se è comunque molto pesante si può valutare se mischiare sabbia per renderlo più sciolto e drenante.

  28. Diego15 Gennaio 2018 al 12:03

    Grazie per le informazioni sempre preziose. Per il trapianto di pomodori, melanzane, peperoni, insalate,… Non vorrei sbagliare periodo, dato che sono alle primissime esperienze, quindi il periodo ideale secondo i vostri consigli è la seconda metà di maggio? Dato che mi trovo in Abruzzo a L’Aquila. Grazie per la disponibilità.

    • Matteo Cereda15 Gennaio 2018 al 15:24

      Ciao Diego. Il periodo di trapianto dipende dal tuo clima. Per peperoni, melanzane e pomodori bisogna fare attenzione che le temperature siano stabili, anche di notte non dovrebbero andare sotto ai 15 gradi. Di solito per questo si aspetta maggio, ma dal mio orto in Brianza al tuo in centro Italia può darsi che cambi di qualche settimana. Le insalate invece tollerano meglio il freddo, penso tu possa metterle in campo già a metà marzo.

      • Diego15 Gennaio 2018 al 16:39

        Grazie per i suggerimenti.

  29. claudio boaro4 Febbraio 2018 al 10:14

    Ottime spiegazioni, dettagliate ed esaurienti. Thanks.

  30. GERARDO19 Aprile 2018 al 10:01

    Ho poco spazio in giardino e vorrei chiedere se il sistema di usare le bottiglie da due litri (tagliate alla base, inserita la piantina attraverso il tappo e riempite con un buon ammendante, a testa in giù, hanno un riscontro per avere una soluzione ottimale in questo tipo di coltivazione e se si con quali piante di pomodoro azzardare. Grazie per il riscontro.

    • Matteo Cereda19 Aprile 2018 al 11:32

      Buongiorno Gerardo, non mi è chiarissima la dinamica di quello che vuoi fare. Se vuoi coltivare una pianta di pomodoro in una bottiglia ti consiglio di lasciar perdere. Il pomodoro ha bisogno di spazio e serve un vaso di grandi dimensioni. Nella bottiglia puoi far nascere la piantina per poi trapiantarla nell’orto. Le dimensioni di una bottiglia da due litri possono essere adatte a coltivare un’insalata o una piantina di fragole, colture meno esigenti in termini di terreno.

  31. Andrea24 Maggio 2018 al 14:56

    Good morning,

    relativamente alla coltivazione di pomodori (ho piante innestate di datterini, ciliegia e cuore di bue), volevo sapere quanti rami principali conviene lasciare. Anche per le ramificazioni secondarie volevo sapere quante conviene lasciarne.

    Grazie in anticipo.

    • Matteo Cereda24 Maggio 2018 al 16:49

      Ciao Andrea, io lascio tutto al pomodoro, togliendo solo le femminelle, come trovi spiegato nell’articolo. Ad ogni modo è una cosa da valutare pianta per pianta.

      • Andrea25 Maggio 2018 al 11:09

        Buongiorno Matteo,

        innanzitutto grazie della risposta.
        Il fatto è che si sviluppano simili a dei cespugli con ramificazioni che partono dalla base della pianta con i frutti che toccano per terra. Mi sembra quasi che arrivino ad essere incontrollati con frutti all’ombra e ramificazioni infinite che portano i rami a cadere dal peso. Tu consiglieresti comunque di sorreggerli in qualche modo senza potare oltre la sfemminatura?
        Grazie ancora e buona giornata.

        • Matteo Cereda25 Maggio 2018 al 14:42

          Dipende, senza vedere la pianta non saprei dirti.

  32. Romano1 Giugno 2018 al 23:55

    Buonasera Matteo.
    Ho messo in dimora 40 piantine di pomodoro circa 15 giorni fa. L’altezza delle piantine è di circa 20/25 centimetri. Noto che in tre o quattro piantine già sta nascendo il frutto. Cosa faccio? Lascio il frutto crescere o lo tolgo distribuendo la crescita della piantina in tutte le sue parti?. Grazie in anticipo per la tua cordiale risposa.

    • Matteo Cereda4 Giugno 2018 al 11:55

      La fioritura prematura si verifica in genere in condizioni di stress per la pianta (troppo caldo, troppa poca acqua o altri problemi del genere). Per prima cosa bisogna verificare ed evitare che la sofferenza si verifichi di nuovo. A parte questo io non toglierei i frutti.

  33. Diego2 Giugno 2018 al 16:23

    Good evening. Ho trapiantato le piantine di pomodori e tutti mi dicono di mettere lo zolfo io invece vorrei evitare di aggiungere sostanze del genere e tenermi su una linea più biologica possibile. Come mai i più ” esperti” vicini hanno questa abitudine? Sarà prevenzione ma io sono contrario. Ho messo a dimora 26 piantine e non vorrei sprecare tutto. Chiedo alcuni consigli in merito. Dal vostro articolo credo si ricorre a tecniche biologiche solo qualora si presentano malattie vero?

    • Matteo Cereda4 Giugno 2018 al 11:54

      Lo zolfo come il rame è un ottimo anticrittogamico, consentito dal metodo biologico. Si può usare per prevenire o per contrastare problemi in essere. Non è sbagliato l’uso dei trattamenti come prevenzione, anche se è bene limitarli il più possibile. Questo significa trattare solo quando le condizioni climatiche (umidità e temperature) sono molto favorevoli alla formazione di malattie. Evitare ogni trattamento è possibile ma dipende dal metodo colturale, in particolare dalla gestione del suolo. Un suolo sano e un ecosistema stabile è già di per sé un metodo di prevenzione naturale. In agricoltura biodinamica ad esempio il rame viene usato solo in casi di emergenza, quasi mai nell’orto.

  34. Diego5 Giugno 2018 al 11:44

    Grazie delle preziose informazioni, con i vostri consigli al mio primo anno sta venendo su un bel orto. Saluti.

  35. Lucia10 Settembre 2018 al 9:14

    Buongiorno, grazie mille per i preziosi consigli. Premesso che sono una coltivatrice alle prime armi, e che la cosa mi piace molto, se posso vorrei sottoporvi una domanda. Nel mio piccolo orticello quest’anno ho voluto mettere il pomodoro cuore di bue, Ho seguito tutte le indicazioni dalla semina al trapianto. Le piante sono cresciute rigogliose, ma tutti i fiori sono andati perduti. Ogni singolo fiore si è seccato nel punto in cui una volta sbocciato si piega verso il basso. Potete aiutarmi a capire il perchè? Grazie in anticipo. Lucia

    • Matteo Cereda10 Settembre 2018 al 11:10

      Ciao Lucia, le spiegazioni sono varie, per cui difficile aiutarti sapendo così poco di cui hai coltivato. La prima spiegazione possibile è il clima: ad esempio troppo freddo può danneggiare irrimediabilmente i fiori e farli cadere.

  36. Maurizio castorina17 Febbraio 2020 al 14:11

    Articolo veramente interessante.
    Sto provando a coltivare in vasi dei pomodori Dove vivo, Singapore.
    Essendo qui un clima equatoriale può funzionare o e troppo umido ?
    Sono partito dai semi e ora Ho 24 belle piantine.
    Quando inizieranno a fare frutti? Quante volte?

    • Matteo Cereda17 Febbraio 2020 al 14:40

      Ciao Maurizio, non conosco il clima di Singapore e neppure so quali varietà di pomodoro hai seminato, quindi purtroppo non sono in grado di risponderti. A mio parere un clima equatoriale può essere positivo, l’umidità in eccesso può favorire le malattie fungine, per cui saranno importanti alcuni accorgimenti, in primis garantire buon drenaggio al terreno, circolo d’aria, ottima illuminazione solare.

  37. Maurizio castorina17 Febbraio 2020 al 16:14

    Grazie per il feedback
    Ho piantato ciliegino.
    Per il clima qui non ci sono stagioni
    Si va dai 25 ai 35 C tutto L anno


    • Matteo Cereda18 Febbraio 2020 al 8:40

      Probabilmente puoi coltivare pomodori senza grossi problemi, ma non conosco le peculiarità climatiche, non resta che provare.

  38. domenico25 Febbraio 2020 al 10:59

    Salve, ho messo dei semi di pomodori su uno Scottex bagnato dentro una scatola di plastica, sono nate le piantine e le ho messe nei cubetti di terra. Se volessi rispettare la luna va rispettata sia al momento che metto i semi sullo Scottex, Sìa al momento che metto i semi nei cubetti di terra così come nel momento in cui metterò a dimora nell’orto le piantine?

    • Matteo Cereda26 Febbraio 2020 al 8:20

      Ciao Domenico, essendo una persona molto scettica rispetto al discorso luna non posso risponderti con cognizione di causa. In genere si guarda il momento di semina su scottex, ma in un contesto dove non esiste una prova scientifica si può affermare tutto e il contrario di tutto. Io ti dico la verità: semino guardando il clima e soprattutto i miei impegni.

  39. filippo7 Maggio 2020 al 10:47

    un argomento molto interessante tante cose che non sapevo grazie di cuore x me che non capisco tanto di giardinaggio

  40. Stefano24 Maggio 2020 al 20:53

    Buona sera a tutti
    Sono un novello, è il mio primo orto e vorrei chiedere come mai le foglie in cima del pomodoro cuore di bue si piegano verso il basso fino ad arrotolarsi su loro stesse

    • Matteo Cereda26 Maggio 2020 al 15:19

      Difficile dire senza vedere. Sarebbe da sapere se ingialliscono o seccano o se si limitano ad arricciare. Verifica che non sia dovuto a insetti che punzecchiano (gli afidi si nascondono spesso sotto la pagina della foglia). Poi può essere anche sintomo di stress idrico.

  41. John18 Agosto 2020 al 22:38

    io ho trapiantato delle piante di pomodoro il 1 agosto prese in vivaio gia molto alte e le ho prese per fare esperienza volevo chiederle se entro inverno la pianta fara dei pomodori le piante sono gia il doppio da quando le ho trapiantate e ho visto che sta inziando a fare i fiori

    • Matteo Cereda23 Agosto 2020 al 15:53

      Ciao Giovanni, non conosco il tuo clima ma con l’arrivo dell’inverno la pianta tendenzialmente finisce di fiorire e il freddo arriva a ucciderla. I pomodori non sopportano temperature sotto ai 12 gradi.

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